Walking into Gert-Johan Coetzee’s humble abode, one thing is crystal clear to me from the onset: the fashion maestro is a devoted aesthete, and dare I say – an astute scholar of the visual arts. From the picturesque artwork on the walls to the mannequins posing in some of his finest couture ensembles, the ornamentation in his home vivaciously captures the essence of his fashion brand.
Upon my arrival, the prolific designer and his team are on set, wrapping up the shoot of a YouTube feature film that is set to showcase his creative process when crafting the sensational designs we have seen from him over the past decade. The fashion artefacts from the shoot are unique, comprising modish cutouts and distinctive hues. Instinctively, I ask Gert about his self-titled brand’s vision, particularly in the African context.
“Gert-Johan Coetzee is basically a modern twist on African baroque. There are two facets of the brand. On one hand, we have GERT, which is more pop culture-inspired, edgy, and aspirational with a lot of “rock and roll” elements”, he laughs.
“And on the other hand, we have Gert-Johan Coetzee (GJC) which is dressy, sophisticated, and more high-end. I’m planning on releasing a mini-series that will showcase the two different aspects of my brand.”
During our laid-back interview, Gert takes me on a tour around his artisanal design studio where all the stylistic magic happens. Firstly, we explore the fittings chamber – the very same one that has been graced by Oprah Winfrey, Chioma Ikokwu, and Bonang Matheba, among other high-profile clients of the globally renowned GJC brand.
On one of the dressers, a dreamy metallic dandelion gown catches my eye and Gert casually explains that it came in from Atlanta, USA a few days ago, after being adorned by singing sensation, Chlöe Bailey at the “Little Mermaid” movie premiere. Our conversation prompts me to ask him what it feels like to not only be a forerunner in the fashion industry but also a pioneer in his own right.
“Witnessing the influence and impact that I’ve had on South African fashion since I started is always very rewarding. It’s heartwarming to see that the work that I’ve done has paved the way for younger designers to build their brands and take local fashion to new heights. Whenever I get excited about a new international client, I am always reminded of how far we’ve come as an industry and look forward to seeing what the future holds.”
Gert expresses that his transition from being a somewhat niche local brand to breaking into the globalised fashion scene has largely been a result of the growth in South African fashion.
“The local fashion landscape has taken a complete 180 from when I established my brand 12 years ago. When I started out, most designers, myself included, had to do most of the work on our own without much funding or a team which resulted in less output. Today, the Gert-Johan Coetzee brand has 30 employees who are awesome creatives, making it easier for us to expand our horizons and cater to the global market. I also look forward to seeing more local brands doing big things on a global scale.”
Delving deeper into his outlook for local fashion, the Forbes Icon (2021) expresses his desire for more work to be done towards sustainability. He shares that using recycled materials, as well as sourcing raw materials from local manufacturers are some of the practical steps that his brand is taking to further the course of environmental conservation.
As an avid viewer of the fashion-imbued telenovela “House of Zwide”, when I heard “design studio”, my brain immediately thought: mannequins in voguish gowns, and a few design sketches on the wall. To my pleasant surprise, the Gert-Johan Coetzee studio has all of that and so much more. From 3D printing machines producing all the artsy archetypes on his breathtaking couture gowns to the equipment that is used for dying fabrics into various hues.
The designer leads me to the other wing of the atelier where he flaunts his next collection, which he prefers to call a “drop” instead. Galvanised by our rainbow nation, Gert’s upcoming range boasts fabric with newspaper prints, brought to life through bold splashes of colour. Naturally, I ask him about the inspiration behind his fascinating choice of fabric.
“I’ve always loved the simplicity of a print newspaper paper because it’s such a good canvas for creating art. For this drop, I want people to know the genesis of my story and I feel like the articles that have been written about me in the media highlight my journey very well. I want people to know where I come from, as well as what the vision and mission of the GJC brand is. Also, conversational pieces always land better with audiences. The message I want to convey is that the world is your canvas and that your story is yours to tell.”
His response is nostalgic of his interview with Previdar last year, where he expressed that everything is art and art is everywhere.
While on the subject of his graphic drop, the fashion connoisseur emphasises the importance of keeping up with the latest vogue as a designer competing on a global scale. According to Gert, technology plays an integral role in appealing to the modern market, hence the futuristic graphic print for his upcoming offering which is set to drop in April.
Of course, Gert’s success – like many other accomplished creatives, didn’t happen overnight. With ample industry experience under his belt, the designer believes that betting on yourself is the best kept secret to succeeding in your craft.
“As a creative, I often forget that coming up with cool ideas doesn’t come naturally to everyone. It’s only when I engage with people who aren’t in creative spaces that I realise the importance of our contribution to the world as creatives. My advice to young fashion designers is to believe in themselves and their crafts. It’s very important to bet on yourself. Be true to your unique creativity because that’s what sets you apart from everyone else.”
Along with this uplifting piece advice, Gert also shares some brutally honest counsel.
“Help is not coming. This is a quote from one of my favourite authors, Mel Robbins. As harsh as it may sound, no one is coming to save you. It is completely up to you to put in the work and make your craft a success. Instead of waiting for your big break, work with where you are and what you have currently.”
The ultramodern fashionista in me can’t help but beam with excitement when Gert shares that he is working on a denim range. After showing me the chic artefacts for the upcoming collection, which is still in the preliminary stages, the designer explains that maturing has made him realise just how much he loves designing ready-to-wear pieces.
“With the designs on the denim range, I really want people to know how crazy I am”, he chuckles.
“But most importantly, I want to create something that people would like to wear for any occasion. Since denim is a timeless piece, the range will give classic chic, with some GJC pazazz.”
With its showroom in LA buzzing with requests from various fashion industry tastemakers from across the globe, the Gert-Johan Coetzee brand is in hot demand. The acclaimed designer shares that the international reception of his non-couture pieces was not on his bingo card but he is savouring the moment, and working towards giving us more futuristic iterations of African baroque.
